Zoik Inflatable Instructions


Zoik Kayak Assembly and Inflation Instructions:

1. Unroll the Kayak on a flat surface with top side up.
2. Inflate the side tubes.
3. Next, inflate the I-beam floor until it is firm but not real hard. When the floor is fully inflated you should be able to push your thumb into it about ½” without too much effort. Be careful, when off the water, to deflate the floor or keep it out of the sun.
4. Thwart Assembly:
a. Inflate the thwart ( backrest) about one half of full inflation.
b. Insert the thwart into the kayak at the most comfortable paddling position for you. Remember that this thwart can be adjusted to any position inside the boat.
c. When you place the thwart in your chosen position with the valve facing toward the back of the kayak, and the thwart seam should be facing downward.
d. Two webbing straps hold the thwart in place. Feed one webbing strap down through the drain hole in the attached floor and back up through the adjacent hole. Place the two loops of the webbing strap onto the cambuckle and clip it to the d-ring on one end of the thwart. Repeat for the other side of the thwart.
e. If you have the tandem kayak, insert the second thwart now following the same procedure.
5. Now finish inflating the thwart to the pressure that is most comfortable to you. Sometimes slightly soft is more desirable.

Zoik Raft Assembly and Inflation Instructions:

1. Unroll the raft on a flat surface with top side up.
2. Inflate the four chambers of your side tubes. NEVER INFLATE ONE CHAMBER OF YOUR BOAT TO THE FULL 2.5 PSI. Always inflate all the chambers evenly, 1/3 at a time, working around the boat until all chambers are inflated up to the 2.5 recommended PSI. This is very important to keep from damaging the baffles or bulkheads.
3. Thwart assembly:
a. Inflate thwart to about one half of the full pressure.
b. Insert the thwart into the raft at the best position for your application. You have two options.
c. When you place the thwart in your chosen position the thwart seam should be facing downward. The valve can be facing forward or backward, whichever is most convenient for you.
d. Apply 303 (or liquid soap) to the aluminum paddle so that it will slide more easily.
e. Place the loop on the end of the thwart between the two loops on the side tubes. Slide the paddle through the three loops from either side whichever is easier.
f. Repeat for the other side of the thwart.
g. Follow the same instructions for additional thwarts.
h. Inflate thwarts to the full 2.5 PSI. Now the thwarts are tight against the side tubes and the paddles cannot be removed.
i. Under each thwart is a 1.3” D-ring (except for the 12’ model). Pass the the strap through the D-ring and secure tightly around the thwart. This helps to hold the floor up in the middle for better drainage. If the thwarts are removed so a row frame can be used then these straps may be attached to the frame.
4. Using a Row Frame: There are 2” D-rings on the inside of the side tube by each thwart (except for the 12’ model). When using a row frame, remove the thwarts and attach the frame to these inside D-rings with straps before securing the frame to the outside D-rings. The inner straps should go up and over the tube and around the outer bar of the frame. Draw straps up firmly to pull the side tubes out so the floor will be tighter. Then attach your frame to the outside D-rings.
5. Caution: When using rafts in whitewater, either the thwarts need to be installed and inflated or a properly fit row frame used to maintain stability of the side tubes.

How to fix a leak on the river (temporary repairs)?

  1. Included with each new Zoik Inflatable is a repair kit containing a tube of one part glue, a small piece of fabric the same color as your boat and a valve tool.
  2. This glue is only for temporary patches such as an emergency repair of an air leak while on the river due to a puncture of an air chamber.
  • Use the following steps for temporary repairs:
    a. Cut a patch from the fabric (in your repair kit) about one inch larger
    than the hole.
    b. Clean the patch and the area to be patched with MEK
    (methyl ethyl ketone).
    c. Apply a thin layer of glue from your repair kit on the area to be patched on the boat and on one side of the patch. (Make sure not to put glue beyond the area to be covered with the patch.)
    d. Let the glue dry about 15 minutes or until no longer tacky. Then apply a second coat of glue to both the patch and the area on the boat to be repaired. This time, just wait until the glue is almost dry, but still a little tacky. Place patch on damaged area. Press out all air bubbles and roll patch firmly.
    e. Let dry for 20 minutes before continuing on your float trip.
    f. Remember, this is only a temporary “on river” repair. After returning home, your boat needs to be re-patched by a qualified repair person.
    g. It is always a good idea to carry some high quality duct tape with you on the river, as it can be used to stop small leaks.


How to make a permanent repair?

Repair Instructions Using Two-Part PVC Glue
Items Needed:

– Pencil
– Scissors
– Patch material
– MEK (methyl ethyl ketone) — may be purchased at any paint store, Lowe’s, or Home Depot
– Piece of cloth to apply MEK
– Two-part glue (glue and accelerator)
– Glass or metal bowl or cup to mix the glue and stirring instrument
– 1 inch paint brush — cut the bristles so they are only about half as long
– Small roller or screw driver with rounded handle
– Hair dryer

These directions work well for small cuts up to one inch. A larger cut needs an inner patch and is best done by a professional.

1. Cut a patch of material generously larger than the cut to be patched and round the corners.
2. Lay the patch in position on top of the area to be patched and draw around it with a pencil. This marks the area to be glued.
3. Clean the patch and the area to be repaired with MEK. This not only cleans the area but prepares the material so the glue will penetrate and hold better. For PVC it is not necessary to do any buffing.
4. Mix glue and accelerator in your bowl or cup in correct proportion, mixing only as much as you will need for this repair. The accelerator you received is the proper amount of catalyst for the amount of glue you received. We have found estimated proportions work just fine. A more precise measure is 120 drops per 8 ounce cup.
5. Using the cut off paint brush, apply the first coat of glue to both pieces that arebeing joined. Let the glue dry thoroughly between coats — approximately 15 minutes or until it is not tacky.
6. Repeat the same procedure for the second coat of glue.
7. When thoroughly dry, apply the patch in the correct position, pressing from the center outward to eliminate air bubbles.
8. Using a small roller or the rounded end of a screw driver, press firmly on the patch in all directions. At the same time, apply heat as this is very important to re-activate the glue. A hair dryer on high works well. It is not recommended for someone without experience to use a heat gun as it can easily get too hot for the material.
9. Allow the glue to cure (with the boat inflated) for 24 hours before use on the water